MINT HILL, NC – If you’re looking to sell your vehicle, one of the best weapons to have in your arsenal is a complete service history. This takes a lot of the unknowns out of buying a car and is a great way to prove what you’re selling is reliable and treated well. Keeping these records, however, is a challenge. Have no fear though, as your repair shop of choice can help you with that!
One of the great things about living in a digital age is that records are considerably easier to remake than in the past. In our own shop, for example, we have digital records dating all the way back to 2003. Every repair done since then, we have a copy of it. For some of our customers who have been coming to us since they purchased their vehicle, we have the entire service history stored in our database. Handy, right? If they ever want to sell I can just print copies.
For what we don’t have, there’s Carfax. You’ve probably seen ads for this on TV. Almost every shop that has digital records, which are most shops these days, send copies of the repair orders to them. This allows us to see what repairs have been done at other places – great for used cars. It also allows consumers to see what was done too, but they usually charge consumers to see these reports, so check with your shop of choice first. They may be able to get you a free copy.
It’s hot, folks. We commonly average 95 degrees–plus weather this time of year. Rolling down your windows is only going to get you so far! Do you know when it’s time to service your A/C? Here’s a few of the warning signs.
First and foremost, check your most recent service date for A/C maintenance. A/C systems can be as low as 20% below full-charge and be cold. Even if you’re satisfied with how cold your cabin is, you may not be getting optimum performance. Generally, A/C should be inspected every other year, but only serviced as needed until the vehicle hits old age or high mileage. After that, inspecting yearly is recommended.
The second warning sign is non-cold A/C. If it isn’t cold, something is wrong. Often times this can be fixed with an A/C recharge, but sometimes one of the parts brakes instead, especially on older cars.
Another less-common but important warning sign is water on your floorboard. This means that somewhere you have a clogged drain hole, and you can risk damage to the carpet, or worse, mold.
Lastly, noises. Things like banging, rattling, or other things that you shouldn’t hear when you turn on your A/C are almost always caused by a broken part and needs a diagnostic service to determine the cause.
MINT HILL, NC – When you’re selling a car, the hardest thing has always been determining its value. Sure, you can grab a general idea here and there, but what is your car worth specifically? That’s where things like the Kelley Blue Book come in handy.
Here’s what a KBB value does tell you: worth based on year, make, model, sub-model, paint color, interior luxuries, and most importantly, location of the seller. It oftentimes gets incredibly detailed, like down to if your car came with fabric or rubber floormats, or if you have the standard or premium sound system that the manufacturer offered.
What the KBB doesn’t factor in are aftermarket modifications. This is generally considered to be proper practice as getting your money back from a car mod rarely happens, if ever, and often devalues a car if undoing said mod requires time, money or replacement “stock” parts. As a rule of thumb, mod money should usually be considered “dead” money.
So how accurate is KBB value? That depends a lot on the user. When we’re entering data about our own car, we tend to think of it as nicer than it really is. Just browse any KBB listings for a while, and you’ll probably find most cars listed as “like new” or “good” when the pictures tell a different story. Plus, KBB asks a lot of questions, and it’s easy to make a mistake when valuing your own car. No valuing tool has solved the problem of the human element, at least not yet.
MINT HILL, NC – Check engine lights. That big orange light that everyone is afraid of. But should we be? Check engine lights are a unique tool that has revolutionized how we inspect, maintain, and keep cars running.
The check engine light as we know it today was born in the mid-1990s. These check engine lights are part of the OBDII system. OBDII is short for onboard diagnostics II, but the name itself is a bit misleading. There was never a standardized “OBDI.” Through 1995, each manufacturer determined how a check engine light and its trouble codes would work. Codes weren’t standardized and could change from one brand to another. We refer to the modern incarnation as OBDII simply because it simply replaced something that had previously been semi-unregulated, and because it needed to be differentiated from what had already been in use.
From 1996 to today, all cars sold in the USA have OBDII equipped. It standardizes why a check engine light can come on across-the-board and makes diagnosing vehicles easier. It can come on not just for mechanical malfunctions, but for pollution issues and electrical malfunctions too.
This light commonly either takes the shape of an engine or is the text that says “SERVICE ENGINE SOON.” Wrench, maintenance, ABS, VSC, TPMS, and Traction Control lights, while important, are no check engine lights. Check engine lights are designed to primarily focus on the powertrain and emissions, not suspension, handling, or tires.
A lot of times I’ll get asked “is pulling a Check Engine Light Code diagnostic?” and the answer to that is no. Codes, while great for pointing you in the right direction, are not diagnostic. Example: Let’s say your check engine light comes on and it’s a P0456 – Small EVAP Leak Detected. Simple right? Not quite. EVAP is short for an evaporative emissions system. This system has lots of different parts involved. The charcoal canister, canister vent valve, purge solenoid, purge valve, vapor lines, and your fuel tank are just some of the parts EVAP systems. Did that code tell us which of these things went bad? What if nothing is bad at all, and your vehicle’s computer (PCM) isn’t testing correctly causing a false-positive?
We don’t know, and we can’t until we dig a little deeper. That is diagnostic. Codes are helpful, they steer us in the right direction, but they aren’t genies in a bottle.
Remember, OBDII was implemented in 1995 and hasn’t changed much. Do you have a smartphone, or a fairly new Mac, or a Windows 10 PC? You know what those are capable of, right? Well, your car is running the automotive equivalent of Windows 95. While there is better tech out there, it hasn’t been federally mandated yet. So until that day comes, OBDII is the path we’re going to take.
MINT HILL, NC – Window tint law in North Carolina is something we get asked about a lot. Oftentimes, we’ll meet someone who has failed their state inspection and they’ll say something like “it’s legal where I moved from,” or “it came off the lot like this,” so to answer some of those questions, I wanted to put together a quick guide.
Aftermarket tint is defined as something that was done to the vehicle after it rolled off the assembly line, not when it leaves the dealer lot. Glass that was darkened by the manufacturer is usually stained or darkened in some similar manner. Aftermarket tint is a film, and you can feel it with your fingernail. In our state, film tint has to be tested as an aftermarket.
North Carolina requires tint to be checked yearly on your state inspection with a few exceptions. Limos, touring/sightseeing vans, police vehicles, and people with medical waivers are exempt. For everyone else, the legal limit is 35%.
On cars of any kind (meaning sedans, hatchbacks, two-seaters and so on) all windows must meet this 35% requirement. For trucks, SUVs, crossovers, minivans, and everything else, only the driver and passenger front windows are limited to 35%. The rest can be as dark as you want.
You cannot tint the front windshield past the AS1 line (a line on every windshield showing how low sun-blocking tint can go without interfering with your line-of-sight) without a medical waiver.
When it comes to auto repair, choices have never been higher. Dealers, chains, and independent shops are abundant and your choices are only limited to the distance you’re willing to drive. It’s hard to choose. So why choose independent shops?
Independent shops are generally independent for a reason. Ask a shop owner why they started their own shop, and the answers may surprise you.
“Working for myself was the best way to ensure I could uphold my values and hire technicians with integrity.”
“I wanted to be with my kids more and this was the best way to ensure I had hours that worked for me.”
“I saw a need in my town that I knew I could fill.”
These are not hypotheticals. These are all real reasons I’ve heard small shop owners mention as to why they went independent. These are not CEOs or Presidents or other big-brass types who care more about bottom-lines and untapped markets. These are your neighbors, and they just happen to like turning wrenches. They live in the communities they serve and are doing their best to provide the best to their neighbors. They’re small business owners that love their town and want to do good by it. That is something that is very hard to duplicate at the chain and dealer level.
You should shop at independent repair facilities for the same reason you choose local restaurants and bakeries over big names in those industries. Because when you support local, you support your neighbors and more importantly, yourself.
Your owner’s manual is perhaps the most in-depth, complex, thorough piece of reading material you own. It has everything from basic specs to complex diagrams and everything in-between. That being said, the book isn’t something you should feel intimidated by, and with a few pieces of knowledge at your side, you’ll be flipping through it like a pro in no time.
One of the best things that your owner’s manual provides is a service guide. Whenever you hear us pros talking about “factory recommended maintenance” or going “by the book” this is usually what we mean. If you’re coming up on a key mileage, like 100,000 miles, and you’re wondering what exactly you’ll need when you hit it, the book will tell you down to the labor involved.
Another nice thing that can be found in your owner’s manual is some basic part numbers. Things like what light bulbs you need, what fuses your car uses and what they act as fail-safes for, and some other minor do-it-yourself type parts.
One thing that I think is more crucial than ever these days is spare tire information. Spares are not one-size-fits-all tires as they used to be. As space gets tighter and tighter, automakers have found unique ways of stuffing these things away, if they’re even equipped at all, and they can be hard to find sometimes. Also useful, the manual tells you how to install a spare, so even those of us who aren’t mechanically-inclined can easily swap them on and off.
One of my favorite features of an owner’s manual is the inclusion of some basic part numbers. Take for example light bulbs. Light bulbs may seem like a simple, one-size-fits-all type thing, but oftentimes your car may take five or six different kinds of bulbs in different places. The owner’s manual will gladly take all of the guesswork out of it for you by telling you what kind of bulbs you need for your headlights, taillights, turn signals, reverse lights, interior lights, and so on. It doesn’t just stop at bulbs, however. The kinds of replacement fuse you need, filter numbers, and even the kind of battery your key uses can all be listed in an owner’s manual. Handy, right?
Lastly, an owner’s manual has great information on safe driving habits for your car. This isn’t just about keeping both hands on the wheel or anything like that, but rather things like proper weight distribution in the cabin, proper towing habits, if towing is applicable to your vehicle, proper use of a four-wheel or all-wheel-drive system, again, if applicable, and proper use of your headlights.
There you go! Now you’re an owner-manual pro. If you have any questions about our articles, your car, our company, or just general automotive questions, feel free to call us at 704-545-4597, email us at email@example.com, check us out on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/ManchesterAutoandTireOfMintHill, or check out our website at www.manchesterautoandtire.com.
State inspections, while a great tool to help keep the air clean, the roads safe and property taxes paid, is a bit of a headache for you and me. Getting one seems simple enough, but rules and regulations can seem confusing at times. Here are some things you should know to make inspections a bit easier.
One thing the state hasn’t particularly advertised well is that you don’t have to wait for the month you’re due to have an inspection done. You can have them done up to 90 days before the last day of the month you’re due. For example, a vehicle due in May is eligible for an inspection as early as March 2nd, 90 days prior to May 31. The earlier you knock it out, the less you have to worry about things like getting new stickers for your plates on time.
2. You can pay your property tax online immediately afterward.
Our state inspection computers are connected to the internet and intentionally designed to immediately communicate with the DMV that your inspection is completed. If you want to, you can pay your taxes online the same day. No more mailing it in and waiting!
3. Prices are set.
Inspections will either be $13.60 for safety only or $30 for safety and emissions, plus a $10 window tint fee if you have it. These prices are determined by the state and legally shops cannot charge more than that. If you know what you need, you already know the price!
As we enter the warmer months, you may see local shops offering filter specials, ours included. If you’re wondering what these filters do, here’s a quick rundown of how the two most commonly replaced filters, the engine air, and cabin air filters, work.
The air filter sometimes referred to as an engine air filter, is what it sounds like. It is a very large, often square, or tube-shaped filter that prevents your engine from sucking in anything dangerous that may disrupt the ability to ignite fuel. This can include things like pollen and dirt, but also water and other particularly large things that shouldn’t be going into your engine’s internals. Signs of a dirty filter are often as simple as a loss in the overall performance of the engine. You should have this filter inspected regularly, cleaned if possible, and replaced as needed.
Your cabin air filter is a lot like the air filters in your home. The cabin air filter cleans up whatever air is going into the cabin through your A/C and heat system. Essentially, anything that comes out your air vent has to go through that filter first. Common finds in a dirty air filter are pollen, dust, and on occasion pine needles, little bugs, and other strange things that may get sucked into an A/C system. Unlike your home’s air filter though, cabin air filters are a bit more durable and usually only need replacing once a year if they’re cleaned properly. Make sure your shop checks at every oil change interval!
If you’re in the market for a used car, you may be in luck. A slew of them might hit the market.
You may remember from February 2019 when we wrote an article about fleet vehicles being a good option for a used car. Hertz, the rental car company, has just announced in a press release that they’ve filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy and is likely going to need to sell a large portion or possibly all of its fleet off. So if you’re in need of a new-to-you car, now may be a good time to start shopping.
If Hertz’s cars start hitting the market, you can expect some decent deals. Don’t get too excited, you likely won’t be finding any once-in-a-lifetime deals on the Hertz lot, but you will see some pretty good deals.
This also means that the used car market as a whole will become more saturated. Remember, Hertz has an incredibly large fleet, about 535,000 cars in total. That’s not enough to set the world on fire, but that’s enough to shake up costs of the average used car, assuming they all were to hit the market. So even a non-Hertz car may come down in price by $200 or so.
Now, remember, Chapter 11 bankruptcy doesn’t always mean “going out of business.” Plenty of businesses that file for Chapter 11 manage a comeback if they can get their debts low enough. But “low enough” for you and me may just mean some fleet vehicles for sale soon.